Shimano Air Tools: Bleeding Shimano BR-M575...

Shimano Air Tools: Bleeding Shimano BR-M575 brakes. Finally found a video instructions how to bleed Shimano BR-M575 hydraulic disc brakes. Now im sharing it with you. Have fun (=

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67 Responses to “ Shimano Air Tools: Bleeding Shimano BR-M575”

  1. Craig Rogers says:

    Hmmm, 1:53 when the syringe is fitted, the pipe has air in it. Push the
    plunger like that and it’ll fill the system with air.

  2. Dmitry Khimoroda says:

    Awesome guide! Followed it and the brakes operate again. Many thanks!

  3. Kenneth Chew says:

    great video.. most comprehensive i have seen! good work.. one thing,
    please leave out the cheesy background music next time :) 

  4. thePavuk says:

    I have them too, and front 180mm disc can catapult me from seat with one
    finger pull. Just that bleeding doesn’t look user friendly like SLX/XT.

  5. bungaunga says:

    Air bubbles must be flushed out of system. If you do the “pull-push” on
    caliper with syringe you will get air bubbles out of tube, but not out of
    chambers behind pistons due to recoil when releasing syringe.

  6. Alex Gynnild says:

    Anyone have experience with improving the stopping power on these
    (different pads and bigger rotor)? I´ve bled mine and i´ve never been so
    disapointed. My bike with cantilever brakes will kill it any day in a brake
    test, even if i do it one handed vs two handed.

  7. neonbluen851 says:

    the voice sounds kinda like the guy on “How It’s Made”

  8. HampshireDavid says:

    Is this procedure supposed to be done with the brake pads in the calipers
    and a red pad spacer inserted OR is it supposed to be done with the pads
    fitted with no red spacer so the pistons move OR do the pads need to be
    removed and the pistons pushed back and a yellow Shimano spacer inserted????

  9. ke26wagz says:

    why would you put a little bag to suck air out, isn’t that the same as
    gently pulling back on the syringe? thanks

  10. krush59 says:

    what do I do with the “old” oil in the funnel and the bag/bottle after the

  11. norbu1987 says:

    i don’t get it whats the difference between normal disc break and this with

  12. Alex Gynnild says:

    LOL Mr know n´do it all. Bleeding´s easy… and if you can stop on a dime,
    you´re going to slow ;) Piston leak showed to be my problem (not uncommon
    with these brakes). And if you think I´m saying stupid things, why do you
    need to point it out instead of sharing you great wisdom as the bike
    mechanic you are?

  13. HampshireDavid says:

    I’ve re-adjusted the caliper after bleedin by loosenin the bolts, applyin
    the brake so it aligns itself onto the rotor, then slowly tightenin the
    bolts up. As i used a spacer when bleedin the pistons were pushed back so
    when i refitted the pads they should of re-adjusted themselves also i
    believe??? I looked online & alot of people have said Shimano brakes have a
    bit more travel than others, I’m used to my Magura rim brakes havin low
    travel, about 20mm. The Shimano has around 30mm.

  14. lukeSkywalkwer says:

    Hi, im not shure wether i should bleed my brakes, the problem is that the
    two brake pads are too close together so that the disc doesnt fit in
    between. the modell is the br485.

  15. bungaunga says:

    Hello Alex. These brakes are terrible. I suggest you replace them with
    M596. I have those now and its like poetry braking with 1 finger. Best

  16. bungaunga says:

    I used to own these brakes. When they work they are average at best. Need
    to do good rebleed before serious use. It doesnt say, but for better
    results you should get hose with brake caliper vertical, so more air
    bubbles surface. Also this is bleeding procedure for new 2012 Shimano
    hydraulic disc brake systems.

  17. Bixio Rimoldi says:

    Thanks a lot. My brakes were no longer effective, but after following the
    procedure you describe they work great.

  18. Josh Davis says:

    Im a bike mechanic and to compare the braking force of a cantilever to
    these brakes is a joke. I just finished a successful bleed and I was able
    to stop on a dime using just one finger… maybe you should learn how to
    actually bleed and adjust hydraulics better before you say stupid things.

  19. B Hsu says:

    Very useful and thorough tutorial for anyone who would like to re-bleed
    these brakes (which is highly recommended).

  20. bungaunga says:

    Hi. All you need to do is re-adjust/reset caliper pistons with plastic tire
    tool and 10mm Allen/Hex wrench(yellow 10mm spacer from Shimano) without
    brakepad being in caliper. Screwdriver might damage plastic shield of
    piston. Also reallign caliper with rotor. I would write you whole
    procedure, but its too long to write here and there are instructions on
    Toolpark page, Shimano USA page and Youtube. (=

  21. Alex Harris says:

    useful advice… getting 2012 xtr levers for my saint calipers and wasn’t
    sure weather the yellow tub thing was the same attachment as the top of the
    resivoir but that kinda settles it :)

  22. Alex Gynnild says:

    Thanks a lot (very quick response :) :. Won´t waste time or money on these
    then. Looking forward to being able to go absolutely mental instead of
    having to be careful. Best regards

  23. hesediel84 says:

    Is the the same procedure for shimanno 445/446?

  24. bungaunga says:

    Yes, just brake handle looks different. (= All Shimano hydraulic disc
    brakes since 2012 are rebleed in this fashion. I suggest you look-up
    detailed instructions at Shimano page(techdoc). (=

  25. bungaunga says:

    Sorry, mineral brake oil only. You can Use Shimano mineral oil. I read
    somewhere you can also use LHM+ or CHF 7.1 mineral oils. My advice is to
    buy original Shimano mineral brake oil. If you lookup on internet you can
    get a bargain. I got 1L bottle for 12€ in my country.

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